The Carbon Effect in Building Soil and Plant Health

The Carbon Effect in Building Soil and Plant Health

The link between soil health, carbon and healthy plants

We’ve always stressed how important soil health is to plant health, but our friends at Madumbi are the experts so we asked them to give us a more in-depth understanding of carbon.

Fact: The nutrient content of a plant’s tissues is directly related to the nutrient content of the soil, and its ability to exchange nutrients and water with plant roots. (FAO – Food & Agriculture Organization of the United Nations fao.org/ soils-2015)

In simpler terms, plant health and soil health go hand-in-hand. South African gardens are made up of a wide range of different soil types, each with their own properties, benefits and challenges. Soil is the foundation of a good garden and as our understanding of soil health grows so too does the priority of building soil.

What do we mean by building soil?

To build a house you need bricks, cement and a team of builders. We all understand that – but how do we as gardeners go about building soil?

At Madumbi, our reference point starts with nature, where soil is formed primarily in two ways:

  • Physical and chemical: The weathering of rocks, into smaller and smaller fragments that ultimately lead to soil formation.
  • Biological: The decay of dead plant and animal material to form organic matter.

These processes have been taking place for millions of years, and will continue to do so. However, as the global population grows, so does the pressure for healthy food production and healthy soils. The natural soil-forming processes simply cannot sustain our growing planet – we need to do our bit by protecting our soils and building soil in our individual capacities, whether in the garden, on the farm or in nature.

carbon cycle

The importance of carbon in soil

The carbon cycle is a fundamental part of life on earth. See above.

CO2 is probably the form of carbon we are most familiar with, but this only makes up a small portion of the gases in our atmosphere (0.04%). Significantly more carbon is stored in soils as ‘soil organic carbon’ (SOC), which is more commonly understood by gardeners as soil organic matter (plant and animal matter in various stages of decay).

Soil carbon is the backbone of soil fertility. The more carbon in the soil, the healthier the soil, and as a result the healthier the plant growth will be.

What are humates and humic substances?

EcoBuz HumiGro is a carbon-based soil conditioner made from humate granules. Humic substances make up the major organic component of the Earth’s soils and sediments, created from decayed biomatter. After plants die, their organic biomatter is degraded by microorganisms in soil to eventually produce humus. Humus-rich soils form the basis of healthy plant growth. Humates are the active ingredient in humic substances.

Adding humates to the soil adds carbon to the soil. In nature, nothing happens in isolation, and the additional carbon promotes existing microbes, enhancing microbial population growth, which results in improved microbial activity and decay (supporting the biological processes needed to build soil).

EcoBuz HumiGro Carbon

Humates have the following key benefits:

  • Feed beneficial micro-organisms (provides energy and nutrition).
  • Increase root respiration and formation.
  • Enhance nutrient absorption.
  • Improve soil aeration and water retention.
  • Decrease water loss and reduce leaching.
  • Enhance the performance of fertilisers.
  • Act as a buffer to harmful substances in the soil.

Think of humates as a concentrated version of compost that forms part of a holistic approach to soil health management.

Humates and compost contribute to the building of soil but because HumiGro is a more concentrated version it has a significant impact on the rate that soil and organic matter is improved.

Soils need to be viewed as a living, symbiotic ecosystem. While this article focuses on the importance of carbon, the basis of soil fertility, it is important to remember that carbon is just one cog in a highly complex system.

General Yard Stuff To Make Your Garden Smile

General Yard Stuff To Make Your Garden Smile

There are always those gardening tasks we cannot get away from. A little bit of work will be greatly rewarded when the family pops around for the festive season.

Prune rambling roses, feed, water well and add a layer of mulch. Stake dahlias as they grow and keep disbudding them by removing the side buds to encourage large flowers. Cut back chrysanthemums to ensure bushier growth and lots of flowering stems in autumn. Mulch with fresh compost and water well afterwards. Keep spraying deciduous fruit trees against fruit fly.

To avoid blight on tomatoes and mildew on cucumbers, squashes and pumpkins, water them early in the morning to give the leaves time to dry off before nightfall. Give citrus trees their mid-season feed of granular fertiliser. Spread evenly over the drip line 20 – 30cm away from the stem. Mulch and water well.

Planting seed potatoes in December and January will produce a harvest in April and May for storing and eating during winter. Weed the garden. After weeding place a layer of organic mulch over every last inch of soil. Mulching not only saves water and your time when you’re desperately busy with other tasks, but will also provide a professional and well cared for look and will display existing plants to their best advantage.

Add swathes of gauras, angelonias, cupheas, lavender, Plectranthus ‘Mona Lavender’, bacopas, perennial verbena and pentas – none of these need excessive pampering or watering!

Large vegetables (tomatoes, brinjals, squashes etc.) should be watered deeply twice a week while seedlings and shallow-rooted veggies (Swiss chard, lettuce etc.) need less water more frequently, even daily in hot December temperatures. Support fruit-bearing tomato stems to prevent the stems from breaking or bending. Use soft ties and loop the tie around the stake and the stem in a figure of eight. Fertilise fruiting crops when they start to flower and leafy vegetables after picking.

Remove weeds that compete for water. Renew mulch if necessary.

5 minutes to spare

Check quick-bearing veggies (beans, marrows etc.) each day and harvest so that fruit doesn’t grow too big or too tough.

10 minutes to spare

Start sowing cool-season crops (cabbage, cauliflower etc.) in seed trays. Keep them out of direct sun but in good light and make sure the soil is consistently moist during germination.

Good idea…

Grow loose-leaf lettuce in the shade of taller plants like runner beans, tomatoes and brinjals.

Make your own composter and start composting

Make your own composter and start composting

Get composting with this simple do-it-yourself project.

Gather Together:

  • 4 treated wattle panels (you can also use chicken wire fencing or sheets of corrugated iron or plastic)
  • 4 plastic coated metals fence droppers (wooden ones will do)
  • Cable ties
  • Newspaper
  • Straw
  • Grass clippings
  • Leaves
  • Compost activator (there are various ones to choose from)
  • Shredder for small branches

The Process: 

  1. Choose a level area that is easily accessible and where the composter can remain for a while. You don’t want to have to move it.
  2. Knock a fence dropper into the ground to a depth of around 300mm.
  3. Attach one of the panels to the pole using cable ties.
  4. Continue knocking in the fence droppers and tying the panels to the poles to form a square, leaving the last one untied for access.
  5. Cut off the excess fence dropper sticking out at the top of the panels.
  6. Start your compost with a layer of shredded newspaper, then a layer of straw, grass clippings and leaves.
  7. Add compost activator to the mix.
  8. You can now add kitchen waste and garden prunings.
  9. To make life easier, put small branches through a shredder.
  10. Turn the compost every 4-6 weeks. Your compost should be ready to use after eight weeks, depending on conditions.