Using Biologicals in Edible Gardening Instead of Chemicals

Using Biologicals in Edible Gardening Instead of Chemicals

We always say, “you are what you eat”, and most of us think we’re being healthy when we eat five servings of fruit and veg a day. But do we really know what we’re eating? When we buy a punnet of plums or a bag of kale from the supermarket, do we know what they were sprayed with while growing or after they were picked? No we don’t, which is the real benefit of eating plants you planted, nurtured and harvested in your own garden – you can control what goes onto them, and therefore what goes into your body. This is why we all need to be talking more about biological control, or ‘biologicals’.

biologicals ladybugs

Simply explained, biological refers to a natural ‘circle of life’ – the predator and prey relationship found in nature, like a lion catching a springbuck. The lion kills something, which is gruesome, but there’s no collateral damage – only the springbok is hurt. With biologicals we take that part of nature and focus it to benefit our gardens – we take the natural enemies of a pest in our garden, and we use them to keep the pest (and only the pest) under control: birds eat caterpillars, ladybirds eat aphids, and beneficial bacteria, viruses and fungi keep other pests and diseases in check.

A biological approach, or biologicals, centres around nature, embracing the synergistic relationships that occur naturally to ensure survival and sustainability. ‘Biologicals’ view nature as being brilliantly creative and diverse – with soil (a living ecosystem) being integrally interconnected with roots and plant health. As an example of the complexity of the soil ecosystem, there are about a million fungal and bacterial organisms in a single teaspoon of soil, each of them playing a part in the natural cycle of life in the garden.

If you want an example of how effective biologicals can be in pest control, look no further than the declining infestations of prickly pears in South Africa. At the beginning of the 20th century prickly pear was a big problem, taking over swathes of agricultural land. Then clever scientists introduced a little cochineal bug, which did its thing and got prickly pear under control. Port Jackson willow is another local biological success story, where a gall-forming rust fungus and a midge have both proven to be effective control agents.

biological pyramid

More relevantly to us and our veggie gardens, tomato plants are very susceptible to Phytophthora root rot, caused by phytophthora fungus-like organisms. Inoculating your soil with biologicals like the spores of the Trichoderma asperellum fungus, which colonises root systems and protects them, can control this. The result – no more root rot, and no chemicals needed!

Another problem we all face is the caterpillars that always arrive when we plant cabbages or mustard, or any member of the cabbage family. If you spray your plants with the Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) beneficial bacteria, the caterpillars will stop eating and eventually die, and if a bird eats them it’s no problem.

A range of biological pest control products is finally available on local retailer shelves. Keep an eye out for the new EcoBuz brand and the four biological products launched in spring 2019. This exciting new development introduces biologicals: safe, effective pest-control solutions that don’t compromise the health of beneficial insects, birds, pets, people or soils and the environment.

Benefits of Ecobuz biological products, or biologicals, for edible gardeners:

  1. Safe, effective, chemical-free pest-control solutions
  2. No residuals – this is of great significance with all edible crops as it means applications can be applied right up to harvest. (Each product is unique, so always check the packaging and inserts for specific details.)
  3. Biological product ‘mode of action’ is unique in comparison to chemical counterparts. This makes these products ideal for use in rotation with chemical treatments to prevent and manage pest resistance (where frequent and repeated use of the same chemicals results in a pest no longer being susceptible to its effect).
How to start a veggie garden

How to start a veggie garden

Growing your own veggies and herbs is still a major trend that continues to grow, only they are not only grown in a vegetable garden, but added to flower beds amongst flowering plants like the old cottage gardens of the past. It’s all about saving space, knowing where your food comes from and having fun!

Here are some tips on getting started:

1. Choose the right place

Veggies like at least six hours of sun. A north-facing space is best.

2. Prepare the soil

Vegetables like fertile, well-drained soil. The more effort you put into the preparation, the more success you will have. Remember these steps:

  • Clear the area of all weeds and plants.
  • Turn the soil over to a depth of 2 spades.
  • Remove any stones or rocks.
  • Rake the area.
  • Leave for 2 weeks.
  • Weed again – add these weeds to the compost.
  • Place a 5 cm thick layer of compost over the area.
  • Dig into the soil.
  • Rake smooth.

3. Feeding the soil

Vegetables need feeding to get the best results. Making your own compost is the best way to do this or use old and dried (never wet) manure.

4. Sowing the first crop

Use these easy tips to sow seed:

  • Use string and sticks to mark out straight lines.
  • Mix the seeds with flour, mealie meal or river sand. This spreads the seed better and allows you to see how you are spreading the seed.
  • Make a small trench along the string line. The depth of the trench depends on what seeds are sown. See the back of the seed packet for instructions.
  • Spread the seed mix along the trench.
  • Cover the seed and gentle pat down.
  • Place a label in the row so you know what veggies are planted.
  • Water the seeds gently, making sure they do not wash away. Keep the soil moist but not wet during germination. After that, water regularly and feed every two weeks up until harvest.
  • Once the seeds have grown to about 2-3 cm high, thin out the row by pulling out seedlings so that the spacing between each plant is correct according to each variety. Pull out the weaker seedlings and keep the strong, healthy ones.

Some seed can be sown individually: Make a hole with your thumb or make a stick for this and measure 5, 10 and 15 mm markings on the stick to make it easier to get the right depth for each seed you are planting.

5. Always follow the instructions on the back of the seed packet

It is your best guide for sowing depth and spacing, when to transplant and basic care.

6. Spread out sowing times

Plant a few seeds of each variety every 2-4 weeks to ensure an on-going harvest throughout the season. Sow leafy vegetables at two-weekly intervals, legumes about three weeks apart, root vegetables about four weeks apart and fruiting vegetables 6-12 weeks apart.

7. Water and feed regularly

Water your vegetables more frequently in hot, dry weather. Fertilise vegetables according to variety. Root and bulb vegetables need phosphates, leafy vegetables need nitrogen and potassium, and fruiting vegetables need nitrogen when planting and potassium before flowering.

8. Mulching

Use mulches such as compost, straw, grass clippings, leaves, etc around all your plants to keep moisture in the soil. Use a layer of mulch 50-75mm thick for the best results.

9. Most importantly

Have fun and enjoy the freshness of homegrown veggies in your cooking.