You should all know by now that I just love succulents! Their diversity is incredible, and with so many to choose from, they make the perfect collectable. They are tough and require very little attention. The most important thing is enough sun and not to over water.
Here is a great way to showcase your succulents, whether on a coffee table or as a centrepiece at the dinner table.
You will need:
1 x Glass bowl
1 x Small bag of silica sand (it is the sand used in pool filtration)
Place the coarse gravel at the bottom of the glass bowl.
Place 5cm of silica and potting soil mix on top of gravel.
Remove your succulents from their pots and discard excess soil on roots, then place in position in your glass bowl, along with your candle.
Fill with silica sand mix to cover the roots.
Place your decorative pebbles around the succulents carefully, and try to avoid getting stones into the leaves of the plants. If it does happen, use a paint brush to brush off plant.
Water lightly. You will see the water drip down to the bottom layer of gravel – keep an eye on your water level and only water if the soil is totally dry
Gardening happiness can take on many forms, but the purest joy is to see new roots on cuttings or fresh growth sprouting from divided perennials – and then to share your bounty with somebody else in the spirit of ‘gardening ubuntu.’ I’ve noticed, when visiting small country towns, that the prettiest gardens in their main streets all have the same shades of mixed petunias growing on the pavement, and the same variety of pelargonium lounging in pots on their stoeps. If you pause to look deeper, you will see that their mass plantings consist of the same agapanthus, and all have hen-and-chickens (chlorophytums) and the same types of ornamental grasses growing somewhere. Under the trees, growing on different plots, you’ll find the same species of ferns growing in their shade. And in spring you’ll see that they all have aquilegias in the same shades.
I call this phenomenon ‘gardening Ubuntu’, which means that these gardeners, who live far away from modern garden centres, have mastered the art of propagating more plants from those that they already have, and that they have also shared their bounty with each other.
With this in mind, here’s a refresher course on how to take cuttings and divide plants to make more of what you have in the garden. The mild weather in October is the perfect time to do this.
Taking cuttings
When you propagate plants from cuttings, you will have new plants that will be identical to the mother plant.
You need
Rooting medium – the commercial ‘Seedling Mix’ is perfect, or you can mix potting soil with washed, coarse river sand, or add in Vermiculite or perlite to get a light medium that will hold moisture without becoming water-logged.
Hormone powder – we have a range of Dynaroot powders available, for various cutting types.
A container with drainage holes at the bottom.
An old pencil or stick.
Sharp and clean secateurs.
Do this Cut off sturdy stems about 8-12cm long. Cut them off below an ‘eye’ (the slightly swollen part or node from where new growth sprouts).
Pull off any buds or open flowers on the cutting, and then remove all of the bottom leaves, leaving only a few at the top.
Place your cuttings in a jar of clean water as you prepare them, to stop them from wilting.
Pour a little of the rooting hormone powder into a shallow, clean dish (the cleaned lid of an old jam jar works perfectly).
Fill up a container with the rooting medium and press it down lightly. The rooting medium should be moist.
Dip each cutting into the hormone powder, shake off the excess, and use your old pencil or stick to poke a hole in the soil medium – palm peat is a favourite of ours! Push the cutting gently into the soil, taking care to cover about half to two-thirds of it with the soil, and press down lightly around it with your fingers.
Water the planted cuttings lightly with a watering can and place in a warm, lightly shaded but sheltered spot. You can save on water by using our popular EXLGel.
Take note:
Commercially grown cuttings are normally kept in a hothouse until well rooted when they are hardened off, planted out and grown on in nursery containers. You can emulate hothouse conditions this way:
Push a few sticks into the container of cuttings, to prevent the plastic from touching them. Water the cuttings, then place the container in a clear plastic bag. Tie a knot in the top of the bag and prick a few holes in the bag to prevent moisture build-up.
Tips to soft cutting success
Don’t use plant material that looks sick or is infested with insects.
Work as clean as you can. All containers and your secateurs must be sparkling clean.
Don’t use garden soil as a rooting medium – try our alternative, palm peat.
Don’t simply push the cuttings into the soil, as this will damage them. Make a hole in the soil first.
The soil medium should be kept evenly moist, but never sodden or the cuttings will rot. Your homemade plastic bag ‘hot house’ goes a long way to prevent this, by preventing evaporation.
Keep the cuttings sheltered from direct sun.
Refrain from pulling the cuttings to check whether roots have formed. Rooting will take a few weeks (3-6 weeks at least!). If they look healthy and you start feeling a slight resistance when very gently trying to pull them out, you can remove their protective covering to allow them to harden off and grow more roots.
When you notice new growth forming, drench them with a growth-stimulating seaweed concentrate like Kelpak every two weeks.
As soon as they are strong enough, plant them out into individual containers to grow them on to become lush garden plants.
Take cuttings of:
Pelargoniums, salvias, lavenders, fuchsias, daisy bushes, penstemons, rosemary and all kinds of groundcovers like Arctotis, osteospermums and trailing gazanias.
Lift and divide
Initially, you’ll be very happy when ornamental grasses and clump-forming perennials grow into thick stands. But if left undivided and replanted into the freshly composted soil for years, the plants will eventually lose quality and flower power. Planting lots of clump-forming plants are also very rewarding and have great value for money, as they will give you many divisions from the mother plant to use elsewhere in the garden, or to swop with other gardeners for varieties you don’t have. You have two opportunities to do intensive division: in Autumn (ideal for most temperate climates) and again in Spring (for very cold frosty climes).
You need
A large garden fork;
A sharp spade;
A knife or panga;
Secateurs.
To do:
Water the plants a day before you are planning to lift them.
Use the fork to lift the clump, trying not to damage the roots. In the case of a very thick clump, it helps to have a friend with another fork, so that you can lift out the clump together.
If the roots are very strangled and the clump is difficult to divide, you can use the spade or knife to cut the clump into workable pieces. Shake off most of the soil around the roots and pull smaller clumps loose, leaving ample roots attached. Don’t divide the plants into pieces that are too small.
Use your secateurs to cut off old woody roots. Clean out the old leaves and then also cut the top growth back to about half its normal length. Too much foliage left on plants that have been newly divided will use energy that should rather be directed to the roots, to help the plants get established again.
Replant the divisions in well-prepared soil and water deeply afterwards. Plant the excess in old pots and dish out to gardening friends.
Plants that can be divided now include:
Japanese anemones, irises, arum lilies, Michaelmas daisies, campanulas, shasta daisies, echinaceas, gaillardias, bergamot, physostegias, daylilies, dietes, agapanthuses, lilyturfs, sweet Williams and strelitzias.
Bask in the garden bounty of autumn
Rake up Autumn leaves and layer them as a light mulch around plants. Also, pack some into black plastic bags to allow them to rot down into leaf mould.
Collect the seeds of spent annuals and perennials by cutting off their stems, with seed heads attached, and place them into brown paper bags. Tie with a rubber band and hang upside down to dry.
Cut back overgrown Summer herbs to freeze in water for Winter use. If there is too much of it (there always is!) tie them into bunches and dish them out to the neighbours.
Dig up some mint and plant it in pots to give away as gifts.
Before taking cuttings of lavender, cut off the flowers, tie them up in bunches and hang them upside down to dry. You can use them afterwards to add a fresh fragrance to linen cupboards and to make potpourri.
Cut off your Autumn rose blooms with long stems, arrange some in your own vases, and take the rest to an old age home.
Want to sow your own cottage flowers?
Romantic aquilegias must be sown in trays in April. These are old-fashioned cottage garden plants that will always give joy in late Spring when they flower. There are many hybrids and forms available, from dwarf to tall. Although they are regarded as perennials, it is better to replace them every year. It is simple and easy to grow them from seeds:
Fill a seedling tray 2/3 with seedling mix – we’ve got the perfect type here.
Tamp it down with a wooden block.
Spread the seeds evenly over the surface.
Spread a thin layer of Vermiculite over the seeds. Take care not to make this covering too deep – a general rule is that the buried seed must not be deeper underground than its diameter.
Tamp down gently again and water with a very fine spray so that you don’t wash the seeds away.
Cover the seedling tray with a piece of plastic, and place in a shaded place until germination.
Grow them on
As soon as seedlings have grown their first two sets of real leaves, they can be planted in small pots or trays with individual holes. At this stage, you can start feeding them every two weeks with a growth stimulant like Kelpak or a water-soluble fertiliser. They can go into the garden as soon as they are strong enough and are growing healthily.
When I think of summer flowering bulbs, it conjures up images of frilled petalled flowers, demanding to be seen. From bright colours to delicate hues, blushing among the green leaves. Bulbs have been romanticised over the centuries and as the meaning of the word Amaryllis so aptly describe in Greek translation “amarysso”, which means “to sparkle”, Greek mythology tells a tale of a shepherdess who shed her own blood to prove her true love, which inspired the naming of the bright red flower of the Amaryllis.
In recent times though, we don’t have to go to these extremes to prove our love, and with the multitude of new Sonatini hybrids derived from this plant, a gift of love in summer is at your fingertips. With hybrid names like Amaryllis Sonatini Harlequin and Sonatini Lemon Sorbet, you will invite summer straight into your garden or home. These hybrids are all true miniature amaryllis that produce a cluster of flowers, each individual flower being up to 10cm wide. These hybrids also have the potential of producing multiple stems. So just imagine, a compact bulb with multiple stems and nests of flowers on each of those stems in colours that not even oil painters could conjure up.
Often we think that having such prized possessions will take much “phaphing” over or extreme special conditions. Sonatini hybrids, because of its manageable size, can be grown straight in your garden, or in a beautiful glass bowl in your home.
Planting Instructions:
They are among the easiest, fastest and most spectacular of all plants to grow, producing huge blooms in less than five weeks from planting.
In the garden:
Plant the bulb without delay, before sprouting takes place.
Choose a location with sufficient sunlight.
Excess shade will result in extended leaves and reduce long-term flowering.
Plant with the neck exposed.
Sonatinis in garden beds look best in same- colour groups of 5 or more.
In a container:
Pot the bulb in any size container into which it will fit, provided it has a drainage hole. Use a good, well-draining potting soil.
The soil should be light, yet nutritious, and contain no tree bark or fresh manure. Sand can be added for improved drainage.
Hold the bulb so that its roots hang down into the pot, then fill in around the bulb with the potting medium.
Firm it down so that no air pockets remain among the roots.
The nose of the bulb should be above the pot’s rim, with its shoulder protruding above the soil surface.
After planting, water well and firm down the medium again. Roots and bulb should be seated firmly, but take care not to damage the roots. Place your potted Amaryllis in a light, constantly-warm position, as this will encourage immediate growth. Any room in which a normal summer home temperature of around 20°C is maintained, is ideal.
Never expose the bulb to temperatures below freezing. As the first floral stalk lengthens, rotate pot through a half turn every day or so. This keeps the stem from bending towards the strongest light source.
After the initial watering, do not water again during the first week. For the following two weeks, the soil should be kept only slightly moist by adding tepid water around the bulb if necessary and any water found standing in the saucer should be emptied out. Over-watering will inhibit root formation. A slightly dry medium will stimulate re-growth of the root system. Once the flower stalk is well out of the bulb, water more frequently.
Care:
Faded blooms may be pulled away from the top of the stalk by breaking the pedicels (small stalks between the main stem and each flower). Should you wish to maintain the plant after flowering, for re-growth and blooming next year transfer it to the garden in a sunny position.
In the garden bed water every 4 days, in a pot every 2 days. Feed it with bulb food and old compost occasionally. If necessary, stake the foliage and stalks. Keep the bulb well-watered and fed until late Autumn. Then stop watering and allow the bulb to enter dormancy.
You may leave the bulb in the garden if that location is expected to receive little or no water through the winter. Alternatively, lift the bulb, pot and all and place it on its side in a dry, dark, cool place. A temperature of around 13°C ideal. Allow the bulb to enjoy a well-earned rest, without food or water for three months. After this period, cut off the old foliage.
Remove the bulb from the pot and wash the bulb and the roots carefully in water. Now repeat the planting process as before. With proper care, it will flower again in spring.
May be harmful if eaten by humans or animals – Keep away from children and pets.
I often think back to my school days and the excitement around the classroom when it was that time of the year to learn about sowing seeds. How we would take a peek at our beans every morning, waiting for that tell-tale sign of life. It is the one thing we all have in common, those lessons with our beans. Seeing the roots shoot and not long after, the leaves starting to form. Some of us even went on to plant our little seedlings and in return get to harvest from our plants.
It is spring and the season for growing. If your primary school days were the last time you sowed a seed, now is the perfect time to get back on that wagon. We all have packets of seed that we have collected. The rule is to remember that even nature has an expiry date. Seeds do not last forever and should they have been left to the elements, it would be better to start afresh. There is a very specific way for seed storage, usually a cool, dark, dry place will do. No worries, there are an abundance of seeds to for you to choose from right here
The next rule is to sow what you will use, some seed packets have hundreds of seeds in them. Should you be sowing all the seed in your packet, a nightmare awaits when you have to prick them out and transplant into your ornamental garden or veggie garden. Unless you are growing microgreens, do not sow all the seeds and be mindful to count them out.
There are two ways of sowing seeds, into containers or directly into the soil (in situ). Usually bigger seeds like beans and pumpkin seeds or even radishes are sown where you want them to come up. Onions and turnips are also sown in situ. Preparing your soil for in situ will only take a moment, and going to that extra bit of effort will surely reward you as your crops grow. Rake your soil level and remove any clumps of soil and stones. Make sure that the soil is free of weeds. Weeds will take up water and nutrients that are meant for your little seedlings. We all know that weeds grow very quickly and can get out of hand if not kept in check. You want to provide the best possible location to sow your seeds. Well drained soil and loads of compost and lastly loads of sunlight. Mark out the area where you want to plant and keep in mind the size of the actual plant when fully grown. A good tool to use for helping create straight lines is a Post and Line.
How deep do you plant your seeds? The general rule of thumb is that planting depth is the height of the seed. Lightly cover and firmly press down soil. Now label! Otherwise you will have no idea what you have sown. Water well and make sure that the water spray is not forceful as you will unearth all your seeds.
Sowing seeds in trays is one of my favourite things. I can better control their needs and move them should they not get enough light to germinate. This way of sowing only takes a couple of minutes but your preparation beforehand will add to the success of germination. Make sure that your seedling trays and tools are clean. You can read up on the whole process in this blog.
You are welcome to share your experiences of seed sowing with me on my Facebook page.
To garden… Geoff Hamilton wrote, “There is nothing like a garden for making you feel small. There you are, right in the middle of the greatest miracle of all – the world of growing things”.
Some of you might think that you cannot grow nearly all that you would like to grow. Yes, some gardening things are more challenging than others, I agree. You did not get on your first bicycle and ride the Tour de France did you? That is the miracle of gardening. Between the soil and the dirty fingernails, it teaches us many lessons. We learn with the seasons and every garden is an individual masterpiece created over time. It grows, as we do.
The good news is that plants are not as fussy as we make them out to be. They generally need a few basic things: good soil, a good watering, sunshine and a good dose of fertiliserevery now and again. And once you understand and accept that all plants have an expiry date, life gets better. We all want that precious perennial from our childhood garden to last forever, but you know what? Perennials only have a lifespan of approximately five years. Annuals only last a season!
Those are the FUN-damentals of gardening. With each season, you can change your colour scheme and add texture. It’s pretty much like having an interior designer at your fingertips, and that designer is you. You create your garden.
Good soil helps to create strong, growing plants. You might wonder what good soil is… analysing it makes for better understanding. Good soil can absorb water, allow air to penetrate and is packed with organic matter, providing nutrients to roots. The good news is that it’s not that difficult to achieve. It might just take a little time and some sweat. Adding compost (organic matter that has broken down over time) allows conditioning of the soil. Another way to add to this process is mulching. This can be done by adding thick layers of leaves around your plants – or even bark chips will do the trick. Over time these chips will break down and add value to your soil. Mulching also suppresses weed growth. Now that is a bargain!
The final basic element to gardening is fertilisers, and when to fertilise. This is a question I am asked often. The best answer is whenever you plant, fertilise. Organic fertilisers complete the cycle of good gardening practices. You never have to fear that you might over fertilise. Organic fertilisers’ nutrients are released slowly and over a longer period of time. There is no danger of plants burning due to chemical compounds and watering right away is optional. All plants need that added boost, so when you see your shrubs start to bud, give them food. Don’t forget your little annuals adding that pop of colour – a liquid fertiliser will do them the world of good.
There are many types of fertilisers on the market, don’t be afraid to ask your garden centre, should you be unsure. We are fortunate that many manufacturers today give us a clear indication of which plant food to use for the many areas of our gardens, whether for our fruit trees, veggie gardens or that special colour spot you just added. So put on your gardening clogs, grab your garden spade and create your own piece of paradise with all the things that grow.
In our eagerness to grow our own vegetables, we often forget that most vegetables and herbs need at least six hours of sunlight to grow and produce fruit efficiently. This is a challenge when you live in a built-up urban area, complexes or in small apartments. But knowing which herbs and vegetables to plant and harnessing the sunlight energy that is available to you, you are able to grow your own. You might not end up with the vegetable garden that your gran had, but there is always hope. Nevertheless, it’s all about clever planning and knowing your surrounds. Where does the sun come up? Do you get afternoon rays hitting a particular wall? Do you have space for a nifty trellis to grow some patio variety vegetables? Many new patio varieties were bred especially for you, the small space gardener.
But before we get to the vegetables and that perfect salad bowl…Herbs have long been banished to the corner of the garden, and I have no idea why. We were taught that specific plants should go into allocated areas of the garden. Herbs come in a variety of colours, purposes and beautiful textures, as long as my arm! Why not plant up a pot or an old bucket with these beauties. You can have a pot for braai, a pot for salads and a pot to add flavour to your stir fries. These do not need to take up a lot of space in your garden or on your balcony. Take a look at this handy zinc bucket for herbs. As long as you remember, good afternoon sun and a warm wall could be sufficient to grow herbs. Surround your seating area with textures and aromas and be inspired to try them in the kitchen. Sage, thyme and rosemary for braai. Rocket, parsley and mint for the freshest salads and Vietnamese coriander, chives and fennel for those Asian stir fries. Add some flowers to your pots, nasturtiums and pansy flowers are edible. The good news is, to give any dish a bit of flair, you can grow microgreens! Jam-packed full of goodness and so easy to grow. Read my blog on microgreens to show you how to grow these little guys. You could even go all-out and install a square metre garden.
Don’t be afraid to experiment, try different spots and see how your plants do. They will be quick to tell you that they are not happy – lanky growth and fewer flowers are usually the first signs. These signs are messages to cut your losses and try again. The following edibles can grow in your garden or on your balcony or patio, with less than 6 hours of sun…yes there is hope for you the avid gardener!
Celery, coriander, fennel, oregano, rocket and parsley to mention but a few. Chives and leeks will survive too.
Lettuce, kale, cabbage and many oriental green varieties like pak choi and tatsoi. Spinach will grow in dappled light in hot areas (remember that afternoon sun against the wall?)
You can train your fruits and vegetables to grow upwards using a trellis, as long as the plant receives sun, the roots can be shaded. Look out for those special patio varieties.
Start planning your spring garden now, sow your seeds and enjoy the fruits of your labour!
Pansies must be the friendliest flowers. With their bright faces, lifting any dull corner and adding months of joy to your hanging basket. These little plants come in a variety of colours, suiting many a gardeners’ situations.
Take care of your little ones
To get the best out of your pansies, when planted in a hanging basket, make sure to place in morning sun or full sun in winter. Loads of sun equals loads of flowers. Pansies grow in a variety of soils but remember, those hanging baskets need good drainage. A ¾ mix of potting soil and compost should do the trick. Add ¼ reconstituted palm peat to help retain water. And don’t plant your pretty pansies in old potting mix.
When purchasing your pansies from a garden centre do the following before you plant them…water the seedling tray well and let stand. Carefully lift the plant from the tray and lightly tease the roots. This will help with strong root growth and avoid clumping of the roots as they grow.
Gently firm the soil around the plant once placed in basket and water every 2nd or 3rd day during the growing season. Fertilise one week after planting and every 3-4 weeks thereafter. A good liquid fertiliser will not burn your plants.
To encourage flowering, remove spent flowers to prevent seed formation.
Pansies seldom have problems with insects and disease, should you however find pesky pests, treat early with organic insecticides and fungicides.
All living things need water but some need less than others. Thank goodness for that. If you live in a low rainfall area, here is your answer to a beautiful garden. Playing with drought tolerant plants and succulents has never been more fun! The biggest part of this pot recipe is your soil preparation.
All you need is:
1 bucket of potting soil (it can be a rusty bucket or a plastic one)
Block of palm peat, reconstituted in water (that means, add a block to 5l of water in a container and watch your palm peat grow!)
2 cups vermiculite
A handful of organic pellets like Atlantic Bio Ocean
A handful of bonemeal
5g of water retaining granules, EXLGel is a good one
Gravel for drainage
A sturdy pot of your liking
A selection of plants like Kalanchoe thyrsiflora, Sedum tetractinum, Gazanias (proudly from South Africa) and Euphorbia “Diamont Frost”
Or just play with a variety of Sedums and Echeverias, their contrasting colours and foliage will be a delight to your eyes.
How to pot up:
Make a soil mix by mixing the following together: half potting soil, palm peat(only used half of the reconstituted mass, the rest you can store safely as is), vermiculite, handful of organic fertiliser, handful of bonemeal and your water retaining granules. Mix together well.
Make sure that your pot has good drainage holes, now cover these up with your gravel. This will stop your soil mix from clogging the drainage holes and retaining water in your pot. Drought hardy plants don’t like wet feet.
Fill your pot ¾ with your soil mix.
To get the best look from all angles after planting, start by placing your highest plant in the centre of the pot. Now you can play with the middle height and add some interest by placing your sedums on the edge of the pot, allowing them to trail over the side.
Press the plants down firmly as you fill your soil around them, water well.
Sit back, relax and enjoy your hard work.
Remember:Liquid fertiliseevery two weeks. Even drought tolerant plants need food.
Micro is all the buzz, although cell phones seem to get bigger, food portions are getting smaller. Just visit any well-run restaurant and you will see. Big plates filled with small dots and brushes of liquified coloured concoctions, baby peas resting on a slice of pink salmon, sprinkles of micro greens of all types of vegetables. You definitely don’t need to be a foodie, or spend a fortune to taste these little micro greens that have taken over the culinary world – and to understand their value. You can grow your own and turn that drab plate into something spectacular! And get all the nutrients!
All you need is:
Wide mouth, shallow pot or seedling tray(if you have the budget, invest in a little unheated propagatoror greenhouse, those you pop on the windowsill)
A good seedling mix (or make up your own: 1 block palm peat and 2 scoops of vermiculite)
And seeds! You can purchase a ready mix of micro green seed or mix up your leftover seeds together and create a surprise for your taste buds (remember, only edibles please.)
What’s next:
Make sure your container has drainage holes, add pebbles to the bottom. Your sprouts will not enjoy wet feet. Fill your container with your seedling mix.
Firm down the soil (not too firm as seedlings need loose soil for good root development) You can use a wooden trowel or just a piece of level wood to do this.
In a different container, mix your seeds with a bit of flour, you can substitute flour for mealie meal or sand. This bulks up the seed and as you sow, you know where the seeds land.
When your seeds are sown, cover them with a 5mm layer of vermiculite.
Water well every day until germination, reduce watering thereafter.
When seeds reach a height of 3-5cm, you can start harvesting.
Hint: Sowing in succession will ensure that you always have Micro Greens.
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After the initial watering, do not water again during the first week. For the following two weeks, the soil should be kept only slightly moist by adding tepid water around the bulb if necessary and any water found standing in the saucer should be emptied out. Over-watering will inhibit root formation. A slightly dry medium will stimulate re-growth of the root system. Once the flower stalk is well out of the bulb, water more frequently.
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